Local’s best, in doughnut season and all year-round


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I heard something blasphemous the other day. A good friend whom I hold in high esteem, upon hearing that I was considering a column focusing on doughnuts, suggested I get over to Tim Hortons to try theirs. I have a lot of love for this person, but I was shocked! When did our community, especially considering the fried dough-steeped Italian-American majority in it, begin to accept that chain restaurants were the alpha and omega of this morning confection?

Nearly every major food culture has a fried dough among its staples. In China, you might have Cantonese doughnut holes with your dim sum; Hanukkah in Israel wouldn’t be complete without jelly doughnuts called sufganiyah; and in Greece, instead of powdered sugar, they coat little spheres of fried dough with honeyed water lightened up with lemon juice. And why not? The combo of sugar, dough and deep-fat frying produces a dessert that’s socially acceptable to eat in the morning. What a great concept!

We have lots of options for homemade doughnuts right here in the north country! Each offering is different, but will start your morning off with far more soul and personality than anything you’ll find from the frozen, factory-produced fry cakes available at either of the two national chains with franchises dotting our countryside.

My favorite doughnuts since childhood are hot and ready seven days a week on Eastern Boulevard in Watertown, at Jean’s Beans. Jean’s was founded in the 1950s in Syracuse, but today, the Watertown store is the last in the empire. Its doughnuts are made fresh daily, and while Jean’s offers raised yeast and filled varieties, it’s the fried cakes I recommend.

These deep-brown babies have the most aggressive fry of those we’ll cover today, resulting in a crisp, fragile crust with crunchy, sweet nooks that dissolve slowly in your mouth and yield to a moist, barely sweet, toothsome interior. Jean’s yeast doughnuts are sweeter, and I think that’s why I love the fried cakes: They’re a hair on the greasy side but are so much more substantial than your standard, airy breakfast pastry.

This time of year, the Cider Mill in Burrville is ground zero for everyone’s fall cravings. It’s an autumnal destination in our area, and rightly so. You go for apples, hot cider and family photos by the waterfall, but why not pick up a dozen doughnuts for your office? Bring a gallon of cider along with them, and look out, because a promotion may be on the way. These doughnuts are more delicate than their cake-style cousins at Jean’s Beans, as well as packing more sweetness from the apple cider in them.

When you bite into an apple cider donut from the Cider Mill, your mouth is flooded with the natural sugars and tang of in-season apples. Your teeth crunch through a light coating of cinnamon and sugar. Half a second later, the airy, light interior collapses into a one-chew experience. They are sweet, but not with the fake candylike quality of cheap chain doughnuts. There’s so much more flavor going on. Also, they have fruit in them, so they’re healthy, technically. Right? Hmm, don’t check in here for medical advice, people.

Mr. Rick’s Bakery, on Watertown’s North Side, is another doughnut institution. I’ve found that the doughnuts here are best very, very fresh, so go early and go often. The cake-style doughnuts at Rick’s — that’s Mr. Rick, to you — are more crumbly than our other examples. This also means they’re a little less greasy, although that trait isn’t a problem for me at either other purveyor. Frankly, they’re mostly uncomplicated and delicious. This joint is newer than Jean’s or the Cider Mill, so you might not have heard of it, but there are many people in Watertown who swear by its breakfast delights. They are handcrafted and available only on weekdays, so get on over to Mill Street and grab a few to dunk in your coffee tomorrow!

Homemade doughnuts also are available at Pearl’s Pastry Shoppe in Adams, but I’m sad to report I haven’t tried them. I intend to, don’t worry. I’m just glad folks down that way have a hometown option in order to avoid the junk from the chains. This is doughnut season, people! The downward diet slide into the holidays is well on its way, so why not forgo a healthy breakfast for a sweet treat and some stretchy pants? Just make sure to do it with good food made with love by real people, not factory-made dough shipped in from a far-off locale.

I want to hear about the fabulous fried dough elsewhere in the north country, and I know you all will fill me in on how to fill up. What we do seem to be lacking is the hipster twist now popular in some bigger cities like cronuts, creatively filled yeast doughnuts and bacon-topped indulgences. I do think Pearl’s has some special flavors, and as I’ve sampled the English muffins there and adored them, it is next on my breakfast list.

You’ll hear this a lot from me, but I really do believe that eating local and supporting our food families is important, not only to our economy but also to our souls. The people of Northern New York are a close clan, and when you nourish your body, even with a naughty treat like a doughnut, doing so with something created by the hands of a neighbor feels better than just shoving food mindlessly down your gullet.

When you keep your money and your yummy local, your friends and family prosper while you get so much more than just a meal — you partake in the communion of what makes our region so special: its people. Yes, the chains are convenient and consistent, but their food is loaded with salt and fat that contribute nothing to the taste; when you eat there, you’re sending your money away from your own hometown. Keep it delectable and eat it local, folks.

Big Hungry Shelby — aka Shelby Cohen — wants to hear from you. Contact her at bighungryshelby@wdt.net and follow her on Twitter and Instagram: @BigHungryShel by and on Facebook: Big Hungry Shelby group or http://wdt.me/shelby.

Jean’s Beans

259 Eastern Boulevard

Watertown, NY 13601

Phone: (315) 788-7460


The Burrville Cider Mill

18176 Route 156/Plank Road

Watertown, NY 13601

Phone: (315) 788-7292


Mr. Rick’s Bakery

525 Mill Street

Watertown, NY 13601

Phone: (315) 779-8070


BHS recommends: Jean’s Beans fried cakes, Burrville Cider Mill’s cider doughnuts

Article source: http://www.watertowndailytimes.com/article/20141123/COL40/141129999

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